Start with the water — all of it
Mosquitoes lay eggs in still water, and some species need only a bottle cap's worth. Walk your yard weekly and dump or flip plant saucers, buckets, toys, tarps, and grill covers. Clean gutters so water does not pool. Near the Intracoastal and the marshes, salt-marsh mosquitoes can travel miles — breeding-site work on your property still cuts the ones biting you at dusk. Change birdbath water every few days. The hidden breeders people miss: bromeliad leaf cups (flush weekly), French drains holding underground water, AC drip lines that puddle, and low lawn spots where rain sits for days.
Treat where they rest, not where they fly
Adult mosquitoes spend days in cool, shady, humid vegetation — dense shrubs, tall grass, under decks. Spraying the air at dusk misses them. Treating those resting zones hits them where they actually spend their time. Trimming shrubs for airflow and mowing regularly shrinks the resting habitat itself.
What does not work
Bug zappers kill mostly moths and beetles, not mosquitoes. Ultrasonic repellers have no credible evidence behind them. Citronella candles protect about a three-foot radius on a still night. Bat houses are lovely for bats and irrelevant for mosquito control. Save your money for what works.
What does work, layered
Breeding-site removal plus resting-area treatment plus seasonal barrier applications — the three together, maintained through the breeding months. Add a patio fan (mosquitoes are weak fliers) and an EPA-registered repellent for evenings out, and your yard becomes genuinely usable again.
Want the full treatment? See our mosquito program or send the form below for a free yard audit.